Mount Shasta is the second highest volcano in the Cascade Range and in the lower 48 United States.
The permanently snow-capped cone dominates the skyline of southern Oregon and northern California for hundreds of
miles in any direction. Shasta is in fact the most massive stratovolcano in the Cascade chain, rising almost 12000
ft (3600 m) from the surrounding lowlands and easily surpassing in volume the slightly higher Mount Rainier.
However, Shasta's southerly location (and slight rain-shadowing from the Coast Range) results in somewhat lower
snowfall and less glaciation than the more northerly peaks of the Cascade Range. Nevertheless, Shasta supports
eight glaciers including the largest in California, and the deep winter snowpack provides good skiing well into the
summer.
The relative lack of crevasse hazard on most summit routes coupled with generally good springtime
weather makes Shasta into THE ideal peak for ski mountaineering. The paved and plowed Everitt Memorial Highway
provides quick and easy year-round access from the City of Mount Shasta to the alpine areas on the south and west
sides, permitting skiing from late fall through early summer. Avalanche Gulch on the south side is the classic (and
much too popular) climbing and skiing route to the summit, offering a continuous crevasse-free ski run of over 7000
vertical feet. The Hotlum-Wintun Ridge on the northeast side is even better, since it is far less crowded but has
similar vertical and drops in a magnificently steep, direct line off the true summit. This may be the finest ski
descent in the entire Cascade Range, and even in the United States.
Route |
Ratings |
Starting Elevation |
Elevation Gain/Loss |
Roundtrip Distance |
Notes |
Quality |
Effort |
Ascent |
Descent |
Summit Ski Mountaineering Routes:
(in clockwise order starting from the south) |
Avalanche Gulch (standard route via Thumb Rock)
|
|
10.5 |
|
|
6900 ft (2100 m) |
7300 ft (2200 m) |
11 miles (18 km) |
This is the standard route for perhaps 90% of those who attempt to climb
or ski Shasta, resulting in severe overcrowding on sunny weekends. It provides the
shortest year-round route to the summit of Mount Shasta, although the routes from Clear
Creek on the southeast side are somewhat easier. There is some steep snow which must be
negotiated as the route passes to the right of the Red Banks, and this area often becomes
windblown and loses its snow cover early in the spring. An excellent option is to ascend
this route, and then ski down via the much steeper bowl located to climber's left of the
Heart, a prominent snow-free rock patch in upper Avalanche Gulch. This bowl is just west
of the Red Banks and it is possible to drop into it via a number of extremely steep chutes
though the westernmost Red Banks chimneys.
(See my ski trip report from June 1999.)
|
Avalanche Gulch (Left of Heart variation) |
|
|
|
Cascade Gulch to summit via upper Whitney Glacier
|
|
11.0 |
|
|
6900 ft (2100 m) |
7300 ft (2200 m) |
15 miles (24 km) |
This route traverses north from the Sierra Club Cabin, leaving the crowds
behind as it heads into the huge bowl of Hidden Valley, between Casaval Ridge and the
southeast flank of Shastina. It then climbs to the 11900 ft saddle east of Shastina, from
where it is possible to go west to Shastina's summit or climb east to the summit of Shasta
via the upper portion of Whitney Glacier. A steeper variation heads directly up the West
Face Gully from Hidden Valley, topping out at 13400 ft at the top of Casaval Ridge, and
then following the standard route to the summit. During winter or early spring, it is
possible to descend the lower portion of Cascade Gulch (below Hidden Valley) all the way
down to the Everitt Highway at 5000 ft, with a car shuttle back to Bunny Flat.
|
West Face Gully |
|
10.5 |
|
|
13 miles (21 km) |
Whitney Glacier (from Whitney Creek)
|
|
12.5 |
|
|
5500 ft (1700 m) |
8700 ft (2650 m) |
16 miles (26 km) |
The Whitney Glacier is the largest glacier in California, extending over
2 miles (3 km) in length down the northwest trending gap between Shasta and Shastina.
The route follows the Whitney Creek drainage directly onto the terminus of the glacier,
and follows its entire length to about 13800 ft, just below the summit plateau. The
uppermost portion which heads east to the plateau is quite steep, but this may be avoided
by continuing southeast and joining the standard route at the base of Misery Hill. The
Whitney Glacier is heavily crevassed, with a major icefall above 11000 ft, so it is best
skied in early season when the crevasses are covered by a deep snowpack. A variation
which avoids the crevasse hazard follows the Whitney-Bolam Ridge, just northeast of the
glacier, above 10000 feet. It is also possible to traverse to the ridge to avoid the
icefall and then rejoin the glacier above.
|
Whitney-Bolam Ridge |
|
12.5 |
|
|
15 miles (24 km) |
Bolam Glacier (from Bolam Creek) |
|
12.5 |
|
|
5500 ft (1700 m) |
8700 ft (2650 m) |
16 miles (26 km) |
The relatively-uncrevassed Bolam Glacier is the best of Shasta's eight
glaciers for skiing. Access from North Gate is short and straightforward, but in
early season when that road is snow-covered it may be easier to take the longer approach
from Bolam Creek. Several variations are possible on the upper portion, including the
very steep Bolam Gully which leads to the upper portion of Hotlum-Bolam Ridge. For a
continuous ski descent from the summit, it is best to follow gentler gullies which lead
from the upper Bolam Glacier southeast to the summit plateau. The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge
itself is the standard north side climbing route, but the uppermost portion becomes
windblown and loses its snow cover before summer. Numerous snowfields adjacent to the
ridge below 13000 ft remain skiable well into summer, although on the east these merge
into the heavily crevassed Hotlum Glacier.
|
Bolam Glacier (from North Gate) |
|
10.5 |
|
|
7000 ft (2100 m) |
7200 ft (2200 m) |
13 miles (21 km) |
Bolam Gully |
|
10.0 |
|
|
12 miles (19 km) |
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge |
|
10.0 |
|
|
12 miles (19 km) |
Hotlum Glacier (from Brewer Creek)
|
|
10.0 |
|
|
7200 ft (2200 m) |
7000 ft (2100 m) |
11 miles (18 km) |
The Brewer Creek trail provides quick access in late spring and summer
to several routes on the northeast and east sides of Shasta. The Hotlum Glacier is the
most voluminous in California and makes a fine climbing route, but is diminished in
quality as a ski route due to its numerous crevasses and icefalls, along with generally
unskiable cliffs at its head. Numerous snowfields nearby offer fine skiing well into
summer, including the ones which line the north side of the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge. This is
an exceptional ski route, a very natural and direct line with just the right pitch,
steep but not too steep. At 12400 ft, the ski route crosses the ridge onto the north edge
of the Wintun Glacier, which is relatively crevasse-free. This route is skiable
continuously from the true summit down to 8000 ft well into July, even in mediocre snow
years. (Detailed route info and trip report from July 2000 coming soon. This was an
superb trip, 6200 vertical feet on great snow.) The northern lobe of the Wintun Glacier
itself may be descended directly to snowfields south of Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, although this
requires a longer traverse to return to the trail.
|
Hotlum-Wintun Ridge to upper Wintun Glacier
|
|
10.0 |
|
|
12 miles (19 km) |
Wintun Glacier (from Brewer Creek) |
|
10.5 |
|
|
13 miles (20 km) |
Wintun Ridge (from Clear Creek) |
|
11.0 |
|
|
6500 ft (2000 m) |
7700 ft (2300 m) |
13 miles (20 km) |
The Clear Creek Route (Southeast Ridge) and the neighboring Wintun Ridge
are the least difficult climbing and skiing routes to the summit of Mount Shasta.
Access is somewhat long, however, until the road to the trailhead melts out in late
spring. Unfortunately, the routes are best skied in early spring, since their
southeasterly aspect and somewhat exposed position leads to an early loss of snow cover
compared to the north side routes or Avalanche Gulch. When the snowpack is deep enough,
these routes offer a variety of broad open slopes and bowls with somewhat less avalanche
hazard than the steeper routes above.
|
Clear Creek Route (Southeast Ridge) |
|
11.0 |
|
|
Other Ski Mountaineering Routes:
|
Lower Avalanche Gulch (below Helen Lake) |
|
5.5 |
|
|
6900 ft (2100 m) |
3500 ft (1100 m) |
7 miles (11 km) |
The lower portions of Avalanche Gulch below Lake Helen (10400 ft) provide moderate ski
terrain in a variety of open bowls above Horse Camp. This area has much less avalanche
hazard than the steeper slopes above, although massive avalanches from high up in the
appropriately named Gulch can still reach this lower elevation terrain during severe
avalanche conditions.
|
Lower Cascade Gulch (from Horse Camp down to Everitt Highway) |
|
2.0 |
|
|
6900 ft (2100 m) |
1100 ft (350 m) -3000 ft (-900 m) |
5 miles (8 km) one-way |
This is the easiest way to do car-shuttle skiing on Shasta. Follow the normal route to
Horse Camp, then traverse north a bit and descend west into the lower part of Cascade
Gulch and follow it the way down to the Everitt Highway at 5000 ft, where a car can be
left ahead of time or one could hope to hitch-hike back to Bunny Flat. Since so little
effort is expended to reach Horse camp, this route could easily be repeated several times
in one day.
|
Old Ski Bowl |
|
6.5 |
|
to
|
6900 ft (2100 m) |
4000+ ft (1200+ m) |
9+ miles (14+ km) |
A variety of ski terrain can be accessed from winter into late spring
via the unplowed portion of the Everitt Highway, which leads from Bunny Flat to the
site of the former Mount Shasta Ski Bowl. This ski area closed in 1978 following an
avalanche which destroyed most of the lifts. The East and West Bowls of the former ski
area provide a variety of moderate terrain which steepens considerably as one heads north
towards Shastarama point. The new Mount Shasta Ski Park is located 2.5 miles (4 km) to
the south, and is an easy downhill ski run from the Ski Bowl. The Sun and Powder Bowls
lie just west of the Ski Bowl and Green Butte, and are accessible easily from the road a
mile past Bunny Flat.
|
Sun Bowl / Powder Bowl |
|
3.5 |
|
|
2300 ft (700 m) |
5 miles (8 km) |
Shastina Ski Mountaineering Routes:
|
Cascade Gulch to Shastina summit |
|
8.0 |
|
|
6900 ft (2100 m) |
5400 ft (1650 m) |
11 miles (17 km) |
This is the standard route to climb Shastina, the prominent satellite cone on
the west flank of Mount Shasta. Follow the description above to the Shastina saddle,
then head west less than a half-mile to the summit of Shastina, which consists of
several small overlapping cinder cones with prominent craters. Lakes can be found in
three of these depressions, but these are always snow-covered until mid-summer.
|
Diller Canyon to Shastina summit |
|
8.0 |
|
|
6000 ft (1800 m) |
6300 ft (1900 m) |
7 miles (11 km) |
Diller Canyon is the massive gorge on the west flank of Shastina, the path of
numerous pyroclastic flows which inundated the townsite of Weed over 9000 years ago.
Snow drifts accumulate in the shelter of the lee (south) side of the canyon, providing a
steep and direct ski line from the summit of Shastina into late spring. A maze of old
logging roads provide access to above the 5000 ft level, just south of the canyon.
|
|
Topographic map of Mount Shasta
showing ski routes listed in table above
<click map to enlarge, 446 kB file>
|
|
|
View of the south side of Mount Shasta from Bunny Flat in June;
Avalanche Gulch is the large snow-filled bowl at center
(photo by Amar Andalkar)
<click to enlarge>
|
Useful Web Links:
List of Guidebooks: (detailed references on the
bibliography page)
List of Maps:
Map Series |
Scale |
Topo? |
Map Names |
Year |
Notes |
USGS 7.5-minute |
1:24,000 |
Yes, 40 ft |
Mount Shasta, McCloud, Hotlum, City of Mt. Shasta |
1986 |
Wilderness Press map is generally more useful |
Wilderness Press |
1:24,000 |
Yes, 40 ft |
Mount Shasta |
1988 |
Combines portions of 2 USGS maps, shows routes;
included with "The Mt. Shasta Book", listed above |
USFS Wilderness |
1:31,680 |
Yes, 80 ft |
Mount Shasta & Castle Crags |
1990 |
A beautiful map, very useful for road info and overview |
USGS 30' x 60' |
1:100,000 |
Yes, 50 m |
Mount Shasta |
1979 |
Marginally useful for a regional overview |
US Forest Service |
1:126,720 |
No |
Shasta-Trinity Natl. Forest |
1997 |
Useful for forest road information |
More photos, routes, links, references, etc. coming soon...
Please contact me with any suggestions, additions, or corrections.
|